charts for Gleeves

Correction: I just realized that the M size needs to taper in at the wrist to keep the glove part of the gleeves from being extremely large. For the size M gleeves, add two decreases in each of rows 4, 6, 12, 14 and 16 in the lower sleeve chart. These are in addition to the decreases already marked in rows 8 and 10 for the S gleeves. I have placed them on the edge of the stockinette section of each row to minimize their visibility.

Gleeves

I commute on my bicycle, and when it gets cold outside, the chill always starts in my arms. Enter opera length gleeves. I can often get away with substituting these for a jacket. These look pretty good inside out, too. Well, I've sorta fallen in love with the look of Andean Silk in reverse stockinette.

This is not a beginner pattern. You need to be able to read charts and knit several different kinds of decreases and increases and a thumb gusset.

yarn

Knit Picks Andean Silk in Fedora. It's a worsted weight alpaca/silk/merino blend. It does itch and pill a bit, but it's super warm and stretchy and strong and shows textured stitches beautifully. I used exactly two skeins for the size small opera length gleeves.

needles and gauge

Each gleeve is knit in one piece in the round. I used size 5 circular needles, but you could use DPNs if you wanted. Perfect gauge is not super important because these are so stretchy, but mine came out at about 4.5 st/inch in the stockinette sections. If you're familiar with Magic Loop knitting, consider knitting both gleeves at the same time.

sizing

(approximate circumference of unstretched gleeve just below biceps cuff)
S = 10"
M = 12" (when stitch numbers differ, they are noted in parentheses)

The model has about 2" negative ease. That is to say, I have 12" biceps and I'm wearing size S. The S gleeves are a close fit and go nicely over a close-fit (read: cotton/spandex) tee. I realize not everyone wears stuff as tight as I do, so I thought up directions for a medium size with more stitches in the stockinette panel (the flat part flanking the cable panel). If you need more room and don't want to fuss with the number of stitches, knit these at a looser gauge.

That being said, these should knit up a bit tighter than you want them, because they stretch quite a bit through wear.

abbreviations:

k = knit
p = purl
YO = yarnover
k2tog = insert right needle through first two stitches on left needle and knit together as if they were a single stitch
SSK2tog = slip the first two stitches individually off the left hand needle onto the right hand needle, as if you were knitting them but forgot to pull the working yarn through. Insert the left hand needle into both stitches and knit them together.
K3tog = Insert the right hand needle into the first three stitches on the left needle and knit them together as if they were a single stitch
SSKPSSO: As for SSK2tog, except instead of knitting them together, knit the next stitch on the left needle, then pass the two slipped stitches over it.

stitch pattern charts:

The pattern stitch is a 16-stitch wide, 6-row faux cable with eyelets, posted here:
.
There are four charted patterns, an upper sleeve and a lower sleeve for each of the right and left gleeves.

pattern

• cuff (left and right sleeves)
  
  Cast on 44 (54) stitches. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of the round. Knit k1,p1 rib until cuff measures 2 inches.
  
  
• right upper sleeve
  
  Row 1: k 25 (32), knit pattern row 1, k 3 (6)
  Row 2: k 25 (32), knit pattern row 2, k 3 (6)
  Repeat for remaining rows of cable pattern (6 rows total)
  Repeat the pattern 8-10 times for opera length gloves. You can adjust the number of repeats for longer or shorter gleeves. The lower sleeve tapering section is 3-4 inches long; keep that in mind when you're figuring length.
  
  
• left upper sleeve
  
  Row 1: k 3 (6), knit pattern row 1, k 25 (32)
  Row 2: k 3 (6), knit pattern row 2, k 25 (32)
  Proceed as for right upper sleeve.
  
  
• lower sleeves (optional)
  *I have 11" forearms and 7" wrists, so I've designed the gleeves to be the same diameter from bicep to mid-forearm and taper in almost 2" at the wrist by decreasing in both the cable panel and the stockinette panel. The cable decreases are kind of tricky, and if you don't want to mess with them I suggest you substitute 4 additional decreases in the stockinette panel."
  
  Continue as for upper sleeve but switch to lower sleeve pattern chart. When you're done shrinking the cable and the stockinette panel you should be down to 36 stitches per round.
  
  
• right glove
  
  If you aren't shrinking the cable, substitute the original 16-stitch, six-row stitch pattern for the shrunken cable 4-row repeat. Be warned, this will make the glove part baggier.
  
  Row 1: inc 1, k20, knit row 17 of lower right sleeve pattern stitch, k4
  Row 2: k21, knit row 18 of lower right sleeve pattern stitch, k4
  Row 3: inc 1, k1, inc 1, k20, knit row 19 of lower right sleeve pattern stitch, k4
  Row 4: k23, knit row 20 of lower right sleeve pattern, k5
  Row 5: inc 1, k3, inc 1, k20, knit row 17 of lower right sleeve pattern, k4
  
  Continue in this manner, repeating the last four rows of the lower gleeve pattern stitch and increasing by two stitches every other round, till you have added 13 stitches. Place these 13 stitches on a stitch holder or waste yarn; they will become the thumb.
  
  Knit four more rows of the pattern stitch + stockinette panel (you should be back to knitting however many stitches you were knitting in row 1). Switch to k1,p1 rib for 1 inch. Bind off.
  
  
• left glove
  Knit right glove rows in reverse. E.g.:
  Row 1: k4, knit row 17 of lower left sleeve pattern stitch, k20, inc 1
  
  When you have 13 thumb stitches, put them on a stitch holder or a piece of waste yarn and continue as for right glove.
  
  
• thumb (left and right)
  
  Put stitches for one of the thumbs back on needles. Pick up three stitches across the gap between thumb and hand. Knit in k1p1 rib for 1 inch. Bind off.
  
  Holy cow, you're done!

Moss Stitch Sashed Hat

This makes a woman's beanie type hat (20" in circumference unstretched) and an optional sash (Ravel it to see the picture of me wearing it with a sash).

Required skills: knitting in the round, decreasing.


yarn:

I used 2.5 balls of KnitPicks Main Line, an aran weight cotton/wool blend. You could probably get similar results with another aran or worsted weight cotton.

gauge:

5 st/in in garter stitch in the round (size 5 needles)

5 st/in in moss stitch in the round (size 9 needles)

8.5 st/in k1p1 rib flat (size 5 needles)

Do be sure to knit gauge swatches and adjust your needle size to get this hat to fit and drape like it should. Cotton yarns respond uniquely to heat, moisture and wear, so be sure to wash and dry your swatch to give you an idea of how it will behave when you try to clean it.

Stitches:

• garter stitch
  k every stitch on straight needles (alternate rows of k and p on circular needles)
  
• k1p1 rib
  (even # of stitches)
  all rows: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
  
• moss stitch
  (even # of stitches)
  row 1 and row 2: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
  row 3 and row 4: *p1, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
  Repeat rows 1-4.
  
  
• decrease stitches
  P2tog: insert the right hand needle into the first two stitches on the left needle as if they were one stitch and purl them together.
  K2tog: insert the right hand needle into the first two stitches on the left needle as if they were one stitch and knit them together.
  

Pattern:

• brim
  

  Cast 96 stitches onto size 5 DPNs or circular needle. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of the row. Knit 1.5 inches in garter stitch.
  

• body
  

  Switch to size 9 needles and knit in moss stitch until hat measures 6" in total length (adjust for shrinkage here).
  

• crown shaping
  

  The decreases will look different depending on where in the moss stitch pattern you place them. I start on a row that should begin with a k stitch, coming right after a row that began with a p stitch, and place my decreases so that I don't disrupt the moss stitch pattern.
  
  Row 1: *P2tog. [k1 p1] 7 times. Repeat from * to end of row.
  Row 3: *P2tog. [k1 p1] 6 times. Repeat from * to end of row.
  Row 5: *P2tog. [k1 p1] 5 times. Repeat from * to end of row
  Row 7: *P2tog. [k1 p1] 4 times. Repeat from * to end of row
  Row 2, 4, 6, 8: [p1 k1] to end of row (90, 84, 78, 72 st)
  Row 9: *P2tog. [k1 p1] twice. Repeat from * to end of row.
  Row 10: *p1 k1 p1 k1 p1. Repeat from * to end of row (60 st).
  Row 11: *P2tog. k1 p1 k1. Repeat from * to end of row.
  Row 12: p1 k1 to end of row (48 st).
  Row 13: *P2tog. k1 p1. Repeat from * to end of row.
  Row 14: *p1 k1 p1. Repeat from * to end of row (36 st).
  Row 15: *P2tog. k1. Repeat from * to end of row.
  Row 16. p1 k1 to end of row. (24 st)
  Row 17. P2tog to end of row (12 st)
  Row 18. K2tog to end of row (6 st)
  Bind off.
  
  a diagram of the decreases:
  
  

  
   p2t k p k p k p k p k p k p k p
     p k p k p k p k p k p k p k p
     p2t k p k p k p k p k p k p k  
       p k p k p k p k p k p k p k
       p2t k p k p k p k p k p k p
         p k p k p k p k p k p k p
         p2t k p k p k p k p k p k
           p k p k p k p k p k p k
           p2t k p k p p2t k p k p
             p k p k p   p k p k p
             p2t k p k   p2t k p k
               p k p k     p k p k
               p2t k p     p2t k p
                 p k p       p k p
                 p2t k       p2t k
                   p k         p k
                   p2t         p2t
                        k2t
  

  
  
  
• sash
  

  Cast on 14 stitches on size 5 needles. Knit k1, p1 ribbing, slipping the first stitch of every row, until sash measures 36". Bind off.
  

It's a sine

1 skein Wool-Ease Thick n' Quick
Size 13 circular needle (as long as you can find, or lots of DPNs)
Size N-13 (9 mm) crochet needle
(optional) contrast or waste yarn, worsted weight, about 6 yards

Gauge: 2 stitches per inch on size 13 needles

Basic version:
Cast on 132 stitches.
Rows 1, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 15: Knit.
Rows 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13: K2 tog 3 times, * (YO, K1) 6 times, K2 tog 6 times, repeat from *.
Bind off.

Makes a 6 foot scarf.

Variation with provisional cast on and contrasting binding:

Using waste or contrast yarn, chain 144; bind off. Using thicker yarn, pick up 144 stitches through crocheted chain (back loop). Continue with basic version instructions. Finish with crocheted bind-off using contrast yarn.

Greys of Shade hat

Updated pattern now posted here and on Ravelry

Making gifts is always an ordeal. I knit and frog and knit and frog. Finally, a hat I can live with.

This is my first time writing up a pattern and I'm sure this one needs tweaking, so do please let me know if you have any suggestions.

This one fits an average to large size woman and uses less than a skein each of Knitpicks DK merino yarn. I used Ash and Fog.

**Pattern**
gauge:

28 st / 46 rows / 10 cm garter stitch on size 4 needles

24 st / 34 rows / 10 cm stockinette stitch on size 5 needles

For the headband:

Cast on 15 stitches in first color on size 4 needles.
Knit 226 rows garters stitch, slipping first stitch in each row. To shape pointed end:
row 1: S1, SSK2tog, k\K9, K2tog, K1
rows 2-4: K13 (still slipping first stitch of each row)
row 5: S1, SSK2tog, K7, K2tog, K1
rows 6-8: K11
row 9: S1, SSK2tog, K5, K2tog, K1
row 10: K9
row 11: S1, SSK2 tog, K3, K2tog, K1
row 12: K7
row 13: S1, SSK2tog, k1, K2tog, K1
row 14: K5
row 15: S2, K1, PSSO, slip the knitted stitch onto left needle, pass 2nd stitch on left needle over the knitted stitch, K1
row 16: K3tog and bind off

Sew 216th row of band to the 1st row of band to form a headband with a little pointed flap on the outside. Sew a button or other decoration onto the flap.

To form the top of the hat:

Using size 5 needles and the second color of yarn, pick up 108 stitches along the edge of the headband. Knit about two inches or 18 rows stockinette stitch. Shape the top of the hat:
-Decrease by 6 stitches in the next row (102 stitches)
-Decrease by 6 stitches every 4th row (twice) (90 stitches)
-Decrease by 6 stitches every 3rd row (twice) (78 stitches)
-Decrease by 6 stitches every other row (twice) (72 stitches)
-Decrease by 6 stitches every row (three times) (54 stitches)
-Decrease by 12 stitches every row (four times) (6 stitches)
Bind off.

Sew a decorative button onto the flap. Mine is lame, I need to find a cool vintage one.